![]() ![]() Except at zazu, farmers came in with whole pigs. “Tom worked with farmers, and we liked that. “We’d been chefs in big cities who just ordered food,” said Stewart, who catered Bill Gates’ wedding in 1994. Stewart had grown up in New York, Estes in San Francisco. (Photo by Erik Castro)īut flash back to 1997, when Stewart, now 48, and Estes, now 47, met while working together at the acclaimed Tom Douglas collection of restaurants in Seattle. The potbelly pig known as “Lucky Precious Piggy Pop Nugget” at the home of John Stewart and Duskie Estes in Forestville. ![]() (Photo by Erik Castro)Īnd they’re constantly experimenting, from a new lip balm called Lip Lardo (made with their own pig lard, grapeseed and avocado oils, beeswax, avocado and shea butters, and almond extract), to a Lard Lather soap, to a prototype of bacon Pop Rocks, which Estes acknowledges may die a snap-crackle death because “they smell like feet.” Wood-fire roasted pork loin from Front Porch Farms and Santa Rosa plumbs served with a arugula and squash blossom salad next to an iron skillet of wood-fire roasted shishito peppers with Marcona almonds and shavings of Pennyroyal Farm Boont Corners cheese at the home of John Stewart and Duskie Estes in Forestville. In fact, Estes was a vegetarian for 23 years until zazu came along. After so many years, it’s still the stuff of wonder for Estes and Stewart, who admit that before moving to Sonoma in 2000, their pork came from packages delivered by a food-service company. Step three: Build a “pig palace” in the backyard (complete with a rain shower to keep the piggies cool), raise the creatures on a luxury organic diet, then humanely slaughter them and butcher in your very own USDA certified kitchen. ![]() Step two: Cut through red tape to procure the animals. Step one: Find some rare, European heritage-breed Mangalitsa piglets. ![]() Yet sketching one of their recipes actually goes like this: Duskie Estes tasting her wood-fired roasted shishito peppers with Marcona almonds and shavings of Pennyroyal Farm Boont Corners cheese alongside an arugula salad at her home in Forestville. (John and Duskie also own and operate Bovolo in Healdsburg see the listing in this chapter.It’s soul-warming fare in a rustic, California-Mediterranean style. A recipe by these chefs is featured in a close-up in this chapter. Zazu is open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Choices might include an antipasto plate brimming with Stewart’s own hand-made salumi (under the Black Pig label) Hog Island oysters butternut squash hash with quail eggs wild salmon with corn griddle cakes duck soup with white truffle oil and venison, swordfish, and flatiron steak. The menus change with the seasons, and there are small plates and big plates to choose from. Everything here is incredibly fresh, from the eggs collected from the couple’s own chickens for creating the pasta, to the produce growing out back, picked at the peak of flavor. Owners/chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart have created a great place with a dedicated following. Reincarnated in the same location, Zazu offers familiar food with a twist. Description: When it was the Willowside Cafe, loyal droves from as far away as San Francisco came to partake of the cuisine. ![]()
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